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Oldest living city on the sacred Ganges River
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About Varanasi
The Ganges's pre-dawn waters reflect hundreds of oil lamps as pilgrims descend the ghats to bathe in the sacred river—necromancy and rebirth enacted in public. The old city's alleys narrow to three metres, temple bells clangorous, cow dung and incense thick in the humid air. Bodies burn on the banks as the Manikarnika Ghat fires never extinguish, Shiva's third eye watching over the city of death.
Best months to visit
Year-round
Things to do in Varanasi
Sunrise boat rides through the ghats observing pilgrims and rituals
Taking the Arti ceremony at Dasaswamedh Ghat with a priest's blessing
Exploring narrow lanes of the old city to find hidden temples
Walking the river banks to Manikarnika and Assi ghats
Attending evening aarti fire ceremonies with chanting and bells
Visiting nearby Sarnath where Buddha preached his first sermon
Weather by month
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Varanasi doesn't accommodate—it demands you accept its logic: sacred fire burning bodies, pilgrims bathing inches away from ashes, death and rebirth enacted daily in public. The city is a koan: how can you fear death when it's so carefully, beautifully normalized?
Best areas to stay in Varanasi
Dasaswamedh Ghat
Most famous, crowded ghat with evening aarti ceremony (sunset prayers). Hundreds gather daily. Energy intense, chaotic, spiritual. Starting point for ghat walks.
Manikarnika Ghat
Cremation ghat where fires never extinguish. Sacred, solemn place. Bodies burn here daily—a meditation on impermanence and Shiva's third eye watching over death.
Assi Ghat
Southern ghat, less crowded than Dasaswamedh. Sacred confluence point where river joins itself. More relaxed atmosphere, friendly pilgrims, better ghat walks.
Old City Lanes
Narrow alleys inland from ghats—shops, temples, restaurants. The city's texture and layers visible in architecture and human activity. Hire guide to navigate maze-like layout.
Getting to Varanasi
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Flights
Varanasi International Airport connects Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata. Trains from Delhi (12 hours, overnight, ₱500-1,500), Kolkata (14 hours). Flights cheapest option from Delhi (2 hours, ₱2,000-4,000).
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From London
Airport to hotels: 15-30 minutes by taxi/Uber (₱200-400).
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Getting around
Walking primary mode in old city; narrow lanes prevent vehicles. Boats essential for ghat tours (hire from waterfront, ₱500-1,500 for 2-hour sunset tour). Hired guides excellent for navigation and history.
Frequently asked questions
Is it safe to visit Varanasi?
Generally safe for tourists. Petty theft and scams common—watch belongings. Avoid large crowds during major festivals. Respect religious practices; don't photograph cremations without permission.
How long in Varanasi?
2-3 days minimum covers ghats, temples, boat tours, Sarnath (Buddha's teaching site). Many stay 4-5 days for deeper spiritual engagement.
What are the health risks?
Ganges water contaminated—don't swim or drink. Standard precautions: eat cooked food, avoid tap water, use hand sanitiser. Hepatitis A vaccine recommended. Giardia and typhoid possible.
Best time to visit?
October-March: cool, dry, clear skies for sunset aarti. April-June: extreme heat, fewer pilgrims. July-September: monsoon. December-January peak season.
Should I attend cremations?
Respectfully possible at Manikarnika Ghat. Treat with solemnity—this is sacred death, not entertainment. Some families allow observation; ask permission first.
Traveler reviews
★★★★★
Varanasi shattered my Western preconceptions about death. Watching the ghat rituals—cremation smoke rising while pilgrims bathed metres away—felt like witnessing human spirituality's essence.
David Goldstein · November 2024
★★★★★
Returned to Varanasi after 10 years away. The Ganges still sacred, still polluted, still crowded. The aarti ceremony hits harder as you age. This city demands surrender to forces larger than yourself.
Amit Kumar · October 2024
★★★★★
Overwhelming initially—the cremations, the ashes in the water, the intensity. But the ghat walks (especially Assi Ghat at sunrise) rewarded my effort. The chai-wallahs' kindness restored faith in humans.
Maria Gonzalez · September 2024
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